|
The Sanctuary at Kiawah Island Resort could not ask for a better setting.
This breathtaking barrier island lined with live oaks, fringed with marsh
grasses, set in the middle of a maritime forest with the Atlantic Ocean at
its doorstep, is in a word — spectacular.
Golfers and tennis players already know this. Ranked No. 1 by Travel and
Leisure Golf magazine as one of the 'Top Ten U.S. Golf Resorts' along with
Tennis Magazine's rating in the '50 Best U.S. Tennis Resorts,' the courses
and the courts of Kiawah Island Resort demonstrate excellence and quality.
The Sanctuary's restaurant, the Ocean Room, garnered top praise from this
newspaper when it opened. As I approached the beautiful staircase that
transports one to the restaurant's third-level location, I wondered if this
could be (with all due respect to Led Zeppelin) the 'stairway to culinary
heaven.'
Two imposing wrought-iron gates swing open to allow your passage into the
Ocean Room. The bar area feels very masculine, appointed with mahogany and
leather, tooled with the creature comforts of plush, upholstered chairs, lit
by the warm glow of a cozy fire, it can easily be your refuge when the Ocean
Course prevails, or you have failed to make a reservation at the Ocean Room.
The dining room proper houses two private dining rooms, banquette seating
along one wall, a corridor of tables on a lower level and a variety of
seating options.
Last spring, talented chef Chris Brandt, who opened the Ocean Room in 2004,
left to pursue an opportunity in New York.
His successor is chef de cuisine Kevin Ives, whose culinary pedigree
includes working at L'Escalier at The Breakers Resort in Palm Beach, Fla. He
is a Florida Culinary Institute graduate.
Brandt left an impressive toque to fill. The cooking of Ives indicates that
the chef's hat rests on an equally talented head.
Inspired by the regions of North Africa, France, Spain, Southeast Asia and
the bounty of the Lowcountry, along with access to an incredible pantry of
specialty foods, Ives has crafted a menu that spans the globe unified by the
skills of a chef and his staff who demonstrate refinement, passion and a
sense of humor.
The Tasting Menu is seasonal and presents an imposing menu of foods,
techniques and ingredients. From burdock root to a fall squash 'pave,' a
pumpkin souffle finished with 'quenelles' of Epoisses de Bourgogne and a
cardamom gateau (cake) finished with a pouring of Torbreck 'The Bothie'
dessert wine, the food demonstrates the technical and playful sides of the
chef. The 'bothie' is where one stops and rests — what better ending to a
five-course meal?
The spotlight, which was to subtly light our table, was out, and the stars
in this culinary firmament began to dim. The solution was found in an
oil-filled tea light and a small flashlight of our servers.
Well-schooled in the nuances of the menu, he carefully navigated us through
its language when we asked about mustard 'caviar' (it is the grains of the
mustard seed), and the duck and foie gras 'Bolognese' serving as the sauce
for a porcini mushroom and truffle 'ravioli.'
The chef's twist on 'gremolata,' the traditional lemon, garlic and Italian
flat leaf parsley that accompanies osso buco, was delicious. Candied orange
peel was the perfect flavor foil to Chinese vinegar-braised short rib.
But then our server disappeared, caught up in the activity of presenting the
multiple courses of the tasting menu to the many guests who ordered it. Each
course required description of both the food and the wine and required
significant time on the part of the service staff.
The loss of patience with what seemed like under-staffing melted away with
one bite of the French Butter Pear and Roquefort Tartlet ($18). Served with
a strapping band of Magret Duck Prosciutto, lemon-lime colored frisee
anointed in a walnut dressing and drizzled with a Banyuls reduction, this
dish was the perfect composition of flavor, taste and marriages made in food
heaven.
The Butter Lettuce and Pear Salad ($15) tossed in a tarragon-infused
dressing, with the grainy mustard caviar and batons of comb honey, was
exceptional.
Comforted by the kitchen, we eagerly anticipated our entrees. But what we
observed was riptide in the Ocean Room. The choreography of the dance at
high-end restaurants is well-rehearsed. Precision meets grace in the
artistry in which orders are taken, meals are served and the tables are
cleared, and the Ocean Room was taking on water.
Was it the private parties? The large number of guests ordering the tasting
menu? I do not know the answer. What I do know is the wait between courses
was lengthy at best, and no one seemed to notice. Another star darkened.
The sommelier was excellent and with astute attention to detail in
describing his choices for our entrees. The wine list, though, is another
quibble. With more than 30 pages, it is cumbersome and in the way of
theexperience. It seems to me that chef Ives and his staff could partner
with food and beverage; pare the menu down to wines that marry well with his
menu and then maintain a reserve or captain's menu for those for whom the
passion for wine is deep.
Intrigued by the Butter Roasted Poussin ($35), whose breast was cooked sous
vide (under vacuum) and whose legs and thighs were boned and tied and
stuffed with rosemary-perfumed butter, chicken became an easy choice. The
potatoes were Boulanger style, which means 'in the style of the baker'
because French homemakers would take their potatoes to the communal oven to
cook. Cooked down to a lacquered finish along with the sweetness of a squash
puree, the saltiness of bacon and diminutive Honjemiji mushrooms, this was
an exceptional dish and again highlighted the chef's talents — chicken and
potatoes taken to an ethereal level.
The Braised Short Rib ($39) did not fare as well. The portion size, to start
with. As part of a tasting menu, it would have been fine, but as the main
entree it was skimpy. The miniature root vegetables were almost too precious
for the robust rib. The Szechuan green beans were full-flavored, and the
crispness of the orange gremolata a pleasant accent for the braised dish.
We were surprised that bread service came so late in the meal, that wine
service was not repeated, and our server was so inattentive. And I will say,
performance standards for a property such as the Ocean Room are held to a
higher bar.
Pastry chef Kelly Kleisner harvests the season with her dessert menu. We
ended with a Baked Vanilla Clafoutis ($15) served with a honey-roasted pear
and toasted fennel seed ice cream and the Bittersweet Chocolate Terrine
($13), which was very good. It had fine-quality chocolate in the terrine,
crisp layers of cashew 'cookie' providing texture, and chestnut ice cream
that made the perfect foil for chocolate. Only the roasted pear and
pomegranate seed garnish seemed unnecessary.
It is clear that the Ocean Room has a stellar location, a shining star of a
chef, a Milky Way of quality ingredients and a commitment to the guest
experience.
At the time of our visit, the front of the house faulted, but it is clear
that the kitchen talent will keep us hungry for more, and the operations
staff will find the wave to ride its well-intentioned staff to excellence.
The Ocean Room at The Sanctuary
Phone: 768-6260 daily, or 768-6253
Address: One Sanctuary Beach Drive, Kiawah Island
Food: **** 1/2
Service: ***
Atmosphere: ****
Price: $$$$$
Costs: Chef's tasting menu, $95; wine pairing to accompany menu $70;
appetizers, $15-$100; entrees, $35-$45; desserts, $9-$15.
Bar: Full-service bar; no jackets or reservations required in the bar;
well-balanced bar menu; infused spirits and specialty cocktails; wine list
more than 30 pages.
Hours: There can be some seasonal adjustments; restaurant, Mon.-Sun. 6-10
p.m.; bar, Mon.-Thurs. 6-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 5:30-10 p.m.
Decibel Level: Varies; two private party rooms can contribute to sound
levels.
Wheelchair Access: Yes.
Parking: Yes, on the grounds of the resort.
Other: Expansive calendar of special events tied in with dinner in the Ocean
Room; two private dining rooms; many seasonal and holiday events. Jacket
required for men in the Ocean Room; not required in the bar.
Web site:
www.kiawahresort.com
|
My
Scribe