Roadside fare, downtown prices

A growing, and ever well-heeled population in and around neighboring Kiawah and Seabrook is changing the culinary dynamics on Johns Island. Sidi's Cook House is one of the latest restaurants to react to evolving customer demand. Though once a simple roadside shop serving Lowcountry favorites and pizza (the latter remained after the popular pizzeria that once occupied the spot closed), Sidi's now combines both. The restaurant also now offers a generous list of sophisticated, continental dishes. The change began a few months ago when chef Thierry Goulard came on board. (Goulard has since moved on from Sidi's.) The transition now continues in the hands of the restaurant's latest chef, Glenn Johnson, who has a long professional cooking resume, including a stint at the Harbor Club, downtown. According to general manager Mary Bull, the higher-end evening fare ultimately came about because that's what customers were asking for. By day, Sidi's sticks closer to the down-home theme. It's an eclectic endeavor that, with a little thematic and precision fine-tuning, could work very, very well. The restaurant is owned by Louise Bennett, according to Bull. The Cook House is named for Sidi, a colorful Johns Island native, is well known for his propensities toward farming and fishing, a love of animals and Charleston, and his enigmatic, charming manner. Sidi has his hand very much in the Cook House's pie. Indeed, he was working the crowd in his congenial manner the night we visited. The restaurant was virtually clogged with a mixed crowd of senior citizens and children in the early hours of a recent weekday evening. Because the tables are well-spaced, it did not feel suffocating (except for the occasional masses near the door), but it did get a little bit loud. Coral and sea blue walls, an eclectic mix of art and a gigantic stuffed marlin lend an appropriately relaxed, beach resort mood that is smartly countered with white linen tablecloths covered with squares of white paper (a new touch according to one of my guests who is a Sidi's regular). Indeed, the food and the prices have changed, and not necessarily for the better, according to said guest. There is no denying that an average entree price of $17 is on par with some of downtown's pricier haunts. While the food is solid, it is not anywhere as remarkable as its prices are high. When combined with an average service score, due mostly to erratic pacing in an overloaded kitchen and, in a lesser extent, to a partially inexperienced staff, the feeding fees became even less palatable. Fortunately, Sidi's staff went out of its way to attempt to smooth out any wrinkles with sincere apologies backed up with an entree they insisted on removing from the bill when it was served charred instead of rare (Beef Tournedos, $21.95) and adding a luscious strawberry dessert (gratis) for good measure. A young, candid and hard-working waitress seated me as soon as I arrived. While I waited for my guests' arrival she attended to my immediate needs, bringing water, a glass of Chardonnay (Hess Select, $5.50) and bread and butter. When my guests arrived minutes later, she did the same for them. Only in Charleston a few weeks, the waitress had little personal knowledge of the menu, but freely offered her observations on what sold well. First up was a cup of Sidi's much ballyhooed she crab soup ($4.25). The soup was delicious, with a lovely fish broth and cream background peppered with soft chunks of celery and onion. Because the crab tasted and looked much more like clams (at initial inspection) than crab and was very lightly thickened, we asked if it was possible that the soup was a chowder, instead of a bisque. She held her ground on the name, and we held our ground on greedy consumption. What's in a name, anyway? A small cheese and onion pizza (8-inch, $7.70), crab and avocado salad ($7.95), and goat cheese salad ($6.95), followed suit. The pizza bubbled with golden-brown cheese over a thick and fabulous crust. It proved that even though pizza is oddly paired with the rest of the menu, it's definitely worth keeping. Goat cheese salads are a dime a dozen these days, and there is nothing to separate Sidi's version from the herd. The cheese was rather hard and dry and encrusted with a dense batter. Conversely, the cool, lightly dressed crab salad was sweet and fresh, enhanced very delicately with lemon and fresh herbs and nary a speck of mayonnaise (thank heavens). The greens and sliced avocado were clobbered by a killer punch of cloying, overly sweet citrus vinaigrette that soaked the salad bed. This dish would have been just perfect minus the greens and vinaigrette portion of the equation. There were a few problems with getting the right tasting glass of Perrin Pinot Noir ($5.50). The first sample was so "off" that it was undrinkable. The waitress quickly and kindly returned with another, that still wasn't right in flavor or scent. Finally, the hostess arrived with a fresh bottle that she opened before our eyes, and this time the wine was lovely and fragrant. Milky, sweet, seared scallops ($16.95) were stellar and stood out in stark contrast to the tepid angel hair pasta tossed with pesto they were served with. It tasted like the precooked pasta came straight from the refrigerator. It was tossed in a saute pan with the pesto and served. The noodles were cold at the center. The second round (after the overcooked batch referenced above) stuffed beef tournedos ($21.95) was fabulous. A creamy, mild sauce brought forth the round, rich flavor of the beef, and the crab was perfect, again. The ribs on the barbecue platter ($15.95) alternated between sweet and tough spots. At times tender and dense with smoke flavor, at others it was hard to chew. The pulled pork was overly dressed with "Sidi's special sauce," which tasted like straight vinegar. You won't find better collards, anywhere, though. To be an excellent roadhouse by day and an excellent roadhouse/fancy restaurant by night requires a careful, streamlined balancing act. Sidi's has some work to do, but it's certainly well on its way to being good at both. The kitchen needs to work hard on its timing to help ease the pacing and nervous energy of the service staff. SIDI'S COOK HOUSE (Night Out) 4430 Bohicket Road, Johns Island (843) 768-4239 FOOD ** 1/2 SERVICE *** AMBIENCE *** PRICE $$$ AMBIENCE: Casual and relaxed. SERVICE: Friendly, earnest. HOURS: Mon.-Sat., 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m., and 5:30 p.m.-9 p.m. DECIBEL LEVEL: Moderate to loud. PRICE RANGE: Appetizers, $2.95-$8.95, entrees, $14.25-$21.95, pizza, $6.95-$16.25. OUR FAVORITES: She crab soup, crabmeat salad, scallops, beef tournedos, collards, strawberry shortbread. VEGETARIAN ALTERNATIVES: Chef accommodates special dietary requests. WINE LIST: 32 varieties by the bottle, $15-$35. Several varieties available by the glass. CC: Visa/MC/AmEx. WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes. SMOKING: No. RESERVATIONS: Suggested. RESTAURANT FACTS Rating criteria include quality and presentation of food, service and ambiance, while taking into consideration the type of restaurant: elegant, night out or neighborhood favorite. What the stars mean: * Fair, ** Average, *** Good, **** Excellent, ***** Extraordinary Price: $ Least Expensive $$$$$ Most Expensive

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