Review of Bohicket Creek Grill

Change of 'direction' leads to good things at Bohicket Sometimes when I hear about restaurants changing "concept," "direction" or whatever word is used to describe the "change," I get a tad leery. Usually, when something is changing, it means something is not working. Getting it exactly right is a little like finding a needle in a haystack in the fickle world of restaurants. One unchanging truism, however, is that people always recognize and return for good food. When owners Ron and Beryl Turner "changed" what was formerly Cafe St. Tropez into the Bohicket Creek Grill earlier this year, they got it exactly right in bringing on talented chef Robert Douglas. This man (a young chef, at age 34) prepares noteworthy dishes that are simply delicious. This change truly works, and the rest isn't bad either. Gone are the slightly snooty mood and pretentious prices that once prevailed here. The new look is more relaxed, more blue (aqua walls are everywhere), and casual. Prices are lower and entrees have a relatively broad price range, falling between $19-$24. Turner describes Douglas' style as "New American Cuisine" that's "serious food prepared in a simple format." It's a good description. The flavor of super fresh local seafood and produce bursts in every mouthful, completely unhindered by complicated sauces or other culinary clutter that can ruin good food. The service staff was efficient and friendly, even though the restaurant was nearly full when I visited, and half of the people were boisterous children. It is peak summer season for this resort community, so the presence of kids is not surprising. Things should quiet down when the season tapers off in September. Views of Bohicket Creek are visible from virtually every seat in the restaurant. Our server asked for our wine order before we had placed our food order, which was out of order as far as we were concerned. We asked her to hold off and offer a recommendation that would pair with our entire order, which she did. She suggested a Pinot Noir (Rodet, $24) that proved to be a little thin, but was drinkable for the price. Her uniform, notepad, and general way reminded me of someone who might take orders in a diner or cafeteria. Hot, good and chewy rolls and fresh butter arrived shortly after we ordered. Appetizers were just delightful. Bohicket's gazpacho ($6) was brawnier than most, with a deep clay-red color and a fine puree of pepper, tomatoes, cucumbers and a little spicy heat. Our server wielded a gigantic dose of Absolut Peppar vodka over the top of it before I even realized what was happening. At least she didn't light a match! It was no small amount, and I liked the purity of the soup better before the potent alcohol flavor came into the mix. However, either way, it was very good. A tennis-ball sized crab cake ($12) with a satin-smooth vanilla aioli was stellar. The lump crab was candy-sweet. The licorice-like flavor of chervil and the roundness of avocado were unusual additions that worked beautifully. This is about as good as a crab cake can possibly get. Similarly, the Prince Edward Island mussels were at the top of the game. The mollusks were sweet, sweet, sweet and fresh, with big, fat round flavor. They were poached in a particularly good wine and butter sauce that was seasoned with fresh basil, red pepper and just the right amount of garlic. The wine could have been cooked out a little bit more. Maybe a cook added a little just at the end? Whatever happened, the alcohol flavor was just a bit raw. We could barely hear ourselves talk as our collective "Mmmm's" buzzed about the table like a passel of content, purring kittens. The roasted tenderloin ($24) was no less than sublime. It had a beautiful charred exterior and a rosy pink interior. Inside and out, it was a top-grade cut of aged beef and tasted every ounce of it. Sweet nuggets of corn that tasted like it had been roasted on the cob and gems of deep-red roasted tomatoes were island-market fresh. Just divine. I also loved the smashed potatoes, which were richly textured and lightly laced with roasted garlic. The New Zealand lamb ($24) was par with the beef, except this was garnished with roasted Vidalia onions (with a bit of thyme, if I'm not mistaken) and roasted (had to be local) fingerling potatoes. What the dish was lacking in color (it might have been nice to see a bit of green), it more than made up for in show-stopping flavor. At $31, a half-lobster was a little pricey, but this one tasted like solid gold. It was the kind that comes from frigid Maine waters where the lobster reigns supreme. This New England girl hasn't had better lobster, and this one was full of smoky flavor that was a luscious counter to the sweetness of the lobster meat. An unusual and fabulous side of a yellow pepper stuffed with smoked chicken, fresh corn, mushrooms and more steeped in sweet coconut meat was a big hit with this taster. Sometimes change is a good thing, and Bohicket Creek Grill chose its strategy well. A good chef is an invaluable asset. That's what Bohicket Creek Grill has. Fine views and a casual environment should make this a winning pick for islanders and visitors alike. BOHICKET CREEK GRILL 1880 Andell Bluff Boulevard, Johns Island 768-1500 FOOD **** SERVICE *** AMBIENCE *** PRICE $$$ AMBIENCE: Resort casual. Nice water views. SERVICE: Friendly and efficient. HOURS: Nightly, 6 p.m.-until. Lunch, Tues.-Sat., 11 a.m.-3 p.m. DECIBEL LEVEL: Moderate to loud, depending on crowd. PRICE RANGE: Appetizers/salads, $5-$12. Entrees, $17-$24 (Lobster is market price). OUR FAVORITES: Gazpacho, mussels, crab cake, tenderloin, lobster, lamb, vanilla ice cream. VEGETARIAN ALTERNATIVES: Some salads and soups. Chef accepts call-ahead special vegetarian/dietary requests. WINE LIST: 70 varieties available by the bottle, $24-$200. 15 varieties available by the glass, $6-$7.50. CC: All major. WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: No. SMOKING: Bar only. RESERVATIONS: Suggested. RESTAURANT FACTS Rating criteria include quality and presentation of food, service and ambiance, while taking into consideration the type of restaurant: elegant, night out or neighborhood favorite.

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