This 'Fish' finds home on Johns Island

An English teacher of mine, Mrs. Williams, used to emphasize that less is more. The folks at Chez Fish have skillfully applied this maxim to one of the most simplicity-appropriate food mediums of all -- fish. Good quality, fresh-from-the-sea fish needs very little to maximize its delicate flavor. The guys behind the line at Chez Fish not only understand this, but clearly possess the skills to execute the simple plan with artistry and skill. French chef Thierry Goulard (formerly at Lafayette, downtown) and his American wife, manager Kathy Goulard, oversee the kitchen and business duties at Chez Fish. Jacques Lemoine, also French, is the restaurant's silent partner. The rest is a 5-month-old success story. Goulard says that the group's plan was to gain the loyalty of neighborhood clientele around Kiawah and Seabrook, an area traditionally busier during tourist season. In Goulard's words, it "seems to have worked." The proof is in the pudding. On an off-season winter weekday evening, the place was standing-room-only. Literal hordes were amassed at the front door awaiting seating. We were among them, even though we had a reservation. An unfortunate 10-minute late arrival derailed immediate seating and led us, with the help of a cheerful hostess, through the "beaded door" and into a holding tank in the neighboring Chez Fish seafood store. It was an interesting wait spent perusing gourmet goods and seafood on ice, but it started feeling long after 30 minutes. Apparently when there is overflow, guests are escorted here where typically there is a bartender on hand. This evening, only waitresses serving tables were there, so our stay was a dry one. No matter, really. Once we were seated, order taking was nearly immediate, following a quick review of the menu and specials. Our waitress suggested that we place appetizer and entree orders since the kitchen was "backed up." We heeded her advice. A cool, dry and refreshing bottle of Chateau de Sancerre, Loire, France ($37) nicely filled the 30-minute wait for the arrival of the appetizers. Doughy, tepid bread (supplied out of house) was a miss. Meanwhile, I checked out the scenery. The crowd was a veritable Johns Island melange of casually clad families and adults. Sun yellow and sea blue walls paint a cheery, ocean palette, which is attractively enhanced by sailboat motif padding the booths. White-washed bead board ceilings and naked concrete flooring did little to improve the almost deafening acoustics at peak service time. Things quieted down later in the evening after most diners had departed. Goulard says the menu is about 90 percent fish and not necessarily French (save a few beautifully prepared classic sauces, not the least of which is a luscious lemon beurre blanc). He tries to give people "what they like." He runs two to three specials (such as rabbit, roast or veal) daily for nonfish eaters, but the rest is purely aquatic. She-crab soup ($3.50, cup) takes on fresh, new, chowderlike meaning Chez Fish. The soup was well-stocked with chunky bits of sweet crab in a frothy, creamy broth of celery, onions, cream and butter. Sherry and (what tasted like) asiago or another aged, hard cheese whispered pleasingly in the background. A hockey puck-sized round of smooth-as-silk goat cheese delicately encased in a golden fried breading was the star player in the sumptuous goat cheese salad ($5.25). A light bedding of ubiquitous mesclan was just OK, as it was in the house salad ($3.95). I would have loved to have sampled a sturdier winter mix, or local summer greens (in season). The house salad got an earthy kick from a drizzle of pungent blue cheese and crispy Granny Smith apples. Both were dressed with a beauteous homemade balsamic vinaigrette. An evening special, a smoked salmon and shrimp terrine ($5.25), had a bulky salmon to shrimp ratio. This dominate flavor of the salmon almost erased the delicate essence of shrimp. The terrine tasted more balanced spread on one of the warm croutons and followed by a bite of a cool, yogurt-coated cucumber salad. After the appetizers were removed, a reminder to our waitress and another half-hour wait later, the escargot ($5.25) arrived (even though we had asked for the dish to be brought with the other appetizers). About this time, our waitress informed us that the restaurant had run out of the pecan-encrusted grouper ($15.95), even though she'd told us earlier that there were two orders remaining. A guest nonbegrudgingly placed an alternative entree order. The tender escargot were out of this world in an exquisite butter and garlic sauce. If I am lucky enough to have a last supper request, Chez Fish's rendition of flounder with a lemon beurre blanc ($14.25) will be it. Simplicity at its finest, the dish showcased the freshest, flakiest and sweetest filets of sauteed flounder imaginable. A colorful mix of sauteed, julienned vegetables adorned the top (as in two other dishes), while steamed white rice and an expertly prepared butter sauce formed a subtly paired flavor bed. The broiled scallops ($15.95) and tuna tempura ($16.95) were on the same excellent par, both dressed with an Asian-inspired ginger/soy sauce. Seafood au gratin ($15.50), an over-salted, oily blend of tough bay scallops, mussels and shrimp, was the singular, though utter, food flop of the evening. Not bad for the new kid on the Johns Island block. Chez Fish proves, largely, that it has learned its culinary lessons well. Service was very pleasant and professional. Pacing seemed to be hindered by very busy kitchen conditions, which was likely a reflection of another tried-and-true theory: If you feed them well, they will come. CHEZ FISH (Night Out) 3966 Betsy Kerrison Parkway, Johns Island 768-0753 FOOD *** 1/2 SERVICE *** AMBIENCE *** 1/2 PRICE $$$1/2 AMBIENCE: Casual, colorful, seafood bistro. SERVICE: Slow when busy. Young, friendly and professional. HOURS: Lunch, 11 a.m.-3 p.m., Mon.-Sat.; Dinner, 5 p.m.-9 p.m., Sun.-Thurs., 5 p.m.-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat.; Sun. brunch, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. DECIBEL LEVEL: Very loud when busy. Moderate when less crowded. PRICE RANGE: Dinner. Appetizers, $2.95-$5.75, Entrees, $9.50-$16.95. OUR FAVORITES: She-crab soup, goat cheese salad, escargot, ahi tuna, flounder with lemon beurre blanc, broiled scallops. VEGETARIAN ALTERNATIVES: Angel hair primavera and some salads. Limited for strict vegetarians. Call ahead to order vegetable plate or order on-site. WINE LIST: International. 60 varieties by the bottle, $20-$38. 19 varieties by the glass. Nightly wine specials. CC: All major except American Express. WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes. SMOKING: No. RESERVATIONS: Strongly suggested. RESTAURANT FACTS Rating criteria include quality and presentation of food, service and ambiance, while taking into consideration the type of restaurant: elegant, night out or neighborhood favorite.

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