Good French food doesn't have to be pretentious

The exterior of Hege's Kiawah Brasserie Francais Classique speaks to the pastoral, coastal vibe created by the design elements of Freshfields Village. The menu, however, harks back to French classics of the '60s and '80s. When was the last time you saw escargot ($8.25) in the shell? Calf liver with bacon ($22.95), traditional coq au vin ($21.95), whole trout ($23.95) and fruits de mer ($29.95), all on the same menu? I was half expecting table-side preparations of Caesar salad ($7.75), the boning of fish, the flaming of crepes and cafe Diablo tossed artfully into cups. But for all of its classic French trappings, Hege's is a casual and welcoming restaurant where guests will experience the same gracious hospitality as the coastal gentry of Kiawah Island. The menu has been crafted with the standard-bearers of French classicism, but respects the season as it plates up oysters, squash, local shrimp and plats du jour. It is at ease exploring the cuisines of Italy with linguine Bolognese ($21.95), medallions of veal piccata ($23.95) and angel hair pasta ($19.95) in a simple sauce of tomatoes and shrimp. It dabbles in new American cooking with its Napa Valley "pizzetta" ($8.75), a Martha's Vineyard salad ($7.25) with a red raspberry-maple vinaigrette. The establishment reaches for the East with a tenderloin of beef salad ($8.25) with wasabi peas, bok choy, wonton crisps and soy-ginger vinaigrette. And never has the menu forgotten the local ZIP code: fried oysters ($8.75), Southern greens ($4.95), cornbread, crab cakes, pecans and flounder all are present. Beurre blanc and remoulade, balsamic reductions and red wine gastriques have met their match in the talents of the kitchen at Hege's. Chef-proprietaire Richard Hege began his career in New York at the critically acclaimed Claude's and became part of a family-run operation with his brother-in-law at Margaux's in Raleigh (opened 1992). He branched out to open Hege's, where as chef and owner he found a home for his sophisticated preparations delivered in an atmosphere of casual simplicity. The accent in the menu is genuine French, but there is no haughty air, no pretension. What distinguished the service at Hege's is that our waiter was actually engaged in his customers — two woman enjoying (and mostly sharing) their meal; a family exposing their toddler to haricots vert and lump crabmeat; longtime friends toasting their longevity in a year of loss and grief; and families large and small having fun at the table. He took his cues wisely and well. It was an experience where we observed kindness to children, consideration to the elderly and attentiveness to women. A menu such as this one is usually a cause for concern. After all, it has many ingredients, cuisines, preparations and techniques tossed on a few pages. This can wreck havoc in an unprepared kitchen. That was not the case here. Betty Hege's House Salad ($6.75) was buoyant with fresh, crisp Bibb and red leaf greens, tossed with a mild (considering garlic and mustard were the seasonings) vinaigrette and accented with bits of carrots, cucumbers, onions and feta cheese. More than ample for two, we were off to a good start. The Mixed Grill de "Fruit de Mer" plated a half-lobster, local shrimp, bacon-wrapped scallops and crabmeat on a downy bed of mashed potatoes, tender-crisp haricot verts (those skinny French green beans) and roasted nuggets of mushrooms. The seafood was fresh, the cooking on point, the potatoes tasted of potatoes. Bon! The lumps of crabmeat were sweet, and the butter sauce glaze never "broke" (separated). The linguine Bolognese with short ribs, pork and veal meatballs and a reduced red wine and tomato sauce was equally well-assembled. Its flaws: too quick to cool and a small portion of pasta. In true Italian fashion, it is appropriate as a primi, but here as an entree, it was "tres" skimpy. Sourdough and cornbread fill your breadbasket. The butter is sweet and the breads are warm. Desserts are made in-house, and the flavors of the Peanut Butter Chocolate Molten Cake With Vanilla Creme Anglaise fit like a glove. Sprightly Key Lime Pie is served with a coulis (puree) of raspberries, sweetened and freshly whipped cream and a scatter of berries — aigre-douce (sweet and sour) — a sweet-tart ending to a very nice meal. Hege's seems to have concocted a winning mix: no foams, no froths, just respect for the ingredients, the season, and time and talent in kitchen. Phone: 768-0035. Address: 275 Gardeners Cir., Freshfields Village, John's Island, S.C. Food: **** Service: **** Atmosphere: *** 1/2 Price: $-$$ Costs: Appetizers $7.95-$19.95; soups and salads $6.25-$8.25; entrees $19.95-$38.95; sides $4.95; desserts $8; prix-fixe dinners $28.95. Bar: Full service bar. Hours: Tues.-Sun., bar 4:30-10 p.m., dinner 5:30-10 p.m. Decibel Level: Moderate; excellent ceiling material for absorbing sound. Vegetarian Alternatives: Yes. Wheelchair Access: Yes. Parking: Yes. Other: Outdoor patio dining (weather permitting), 'Bistro Wednesdays' three-course prix-fixe $26.95 menu, children's menu $8.95, private dining in the Bordeaux Room, semi-private dining in the Rhone Room, catering, special events, and party and event planning.

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